GOWNS & JACKETS


Styles: The following items are available in linen or cotton,
see Stock Room for our current selection of colors and prints.



WOMEN'S CLOTHING
~~ Gowns & Jackets
~~ Shifts, Petticoats, Jumps
~~ Outerwear
~~ Other Garments (aprons, caps, neckhandkerchiefs, &c)

~~ Infant Clothing

~~ Jewelry

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Gown, "Robe Polonaise"



All research indicates that in the 18th century English-speaking world, gowns were the norm for women of all classes. At any given time, the lowliest work-gown and the fanciest afternoon-gown had the same cut and construction, the only significant differences being the choice of fabric and the amount and kind of trim, if any.

  

The gown we offer you is typical of the Rev War period, c. 1770-85. It has an open-fronted skirt, a fitted bodice cut separate from the skirts, and it meets edge-to-edge at the center-front of the bodice, to be fastened with straight pins (hooks & eyes extra).


interior gown bodice lining showing construction methods

Bodice & sleeves are lined with linen. (In accordance with typical 18th c. practice, our linen lining fabrics may vary according to what we have on hand, and in accordance with typical 18th c. practice, your sleeves may be lined with a slightly different linen than the bodice lining.)




detail of outside of bodice, center front, at neck


Edges are correctly sewn by hand, in underhand-stitch, bodice seams are hand topstitched, skirts are hand-hemmed.




detail of inside of bodice, center front, at waist



detail of back neck facing

Only the lining seams and long skirt seams are machine-sewn, this gown is nearly completely hand-done! Comes with ten "correct" pins for fastening the center-front, or you may have hooks & eyes for $35 extra.

Note: This is a working woman's gown. It is designed to get you into a documented, correctly made, gown as inexpensively as possible. It has no pocket slits, no ties for "polonaising" the skirts, no center front fastenings, no trims, and some of the interior seam allowances are unfinished, just as they were on the originals. If you'd prefer to upgrade any of these niceties, we'd be happy to add them, but there will be additional charges for the labor required.



an original gown, linen lining, c. 1783, from a New England collection

The interior seam finishing may seem crude, but it is strictly historically accurate!

$245.00 linen or cotton
$260.00 wool



  

Observe how the same gown, shift, stays and cap can be transformed into a fashionable afternoon ensemble with the addition of a few simple other garments. A finer petticoat, one of our large rumps, a stylish hat, a bosom-knot of pretty ribbon, and some simple jewelry from my new line of 18th century reproduction jewelry convert your common day-gown into an outfit fine enough for a fashionable promenade, a country-dance, a ladies-tea, or even a simple wedding

.
Online Documentation

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Bedgown

This comfortable jacket can serve as a beginning re-enactress's starter-garment until stays can be obtained, but it has many more uses. Wear it in camp or at home as a "boudoir jacket" when you aren't fully dressed, wear it for those days when you don't care to lace down your stays too tightly, wear it for a maternity and nursing jacket. This jacket is easy to wear, and looks great on everyone! (It even looks great with a turtleneck and jeans.)



  

Our bedgown is made according to the Mill Farm pattern, which is based upon two extant original specimens, one in the collections of Colonial Williamsburg and one in the Swedish National Museum, and used by permission of Burnley&Trowbridge www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com.


detail of bedgown neckline, center front


bedgown sleeve detail

It is available in our solid colors of linen , plus printed cottons as available [see swatches]. It is unlined.


bedgown inside hem and seam detail

All interior seams have raw edges neatly turned in and machine-seamed, all exterior sewing is by hand. No fastenings.



$90.00 linen or cotton
$100.00 wool



Online Documentation

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Jacket

Although never as common as gowns, jackets were still a stylish "undress" garment c. 1750-85, especially fashionable in the late 1770's. Our jacket (the Mill Farm Caraco used by permission of Burnley&Trowbridge www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com) is fitted through the body for wearing over stays, with a flaring hemline which looks particularly "jaunty" when worn over one of our small rumps.







It is fully lined, with all edges hand-stitched.




inside sleeve seam detail


sleeve stitching detail


shoulder strap stitching detail


center front neck inside


center front neck outside

Your fabric choices are as for our bedgown, [see swatches] with a plain linen lining. (In accordance with typical 18th c. practice, our linen lining fabrics may vary according to what we have on hand, and in accordance with typical 18th c. practice, your sleeves may be lined with a slightly different linen than the body lining.) The jacket closes at center-front with hooks and eyes. Measurements must be taken over stays or jumps.[see Fitting Room]. For deep cuffs, suitable for mid-century, add $20.

$190.00 linen or cotton
$200.00 wool



Online Documentation

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Wrapper



The wrapper is a house robe or dressing gown, like a banyan, but for a woman. Wear it in camp or at home before you are fully dressed, wear it on cold mornings or for those days when you don't care to lace down your stays too tightly, wear it for an informal maternity gown.








Our wrapper is modeled after several similar informal gowns depicted in portraits by J.S. Copley, "Portrait of A Lady" [possibly Hester Lynch Salusbry Thrale], painted in New York in 1771; another a 1769 Boston portrait, "Mrs. Isaac (Elizabeth Storer) Smith" and another, a 1757 "Portrait of Mrs. Daniel Rea and Child"



wrapper neckline detail


inside center front hem


inside seam and hem

We show the wrapper here in worsted suiting. We offer it unlined in our solid colors of linen, worsted suiting, or printed cottons, as available [see swatches]. All interior seams have raw edges neatly turned in and machine-seamed, all exterior sewing is by hand. No fastenings.

$145.00 linen or cotton, unlined
$165.00 wool

Or, if your impression is one of a lady of leisure, have us make this wrapper for you as Copley's sitters wore it, the epitome of luxurious comfort, in silk lined with silk! This is a custom-order, so you can have your choice of color and type of silks.

$230.00 in silk lined with silk, price will vary with silks chosen.

~~Documentation for working-class wrappers from Paul Dickfoss, as posted to 18cWoman list 1:03 AM EDT 7/17/07, used with Mr. Dickfoss' permission.

Pennsylvania Gazette, 1772, "Run away ... an indented servant woman ... had on, and took with her, when she went away, a long chints wrapper, of a yellow ground, with large red and brown sunflowers the pattern, the sleeves pieced near the cuff, with red and brown spotted calicoe, and broke under the arms; and over said wrapper, a short gown, with some red and white stripes and sprigs through it, a good deal worn, and pieced under the arms with check linen, the colour much faded.

Royal Georgia Gazette, 1781. "Ran away ... a likely young [Negro] wench, born in this country, had on when she went away a blue Bath coating wrapper and petticoat. " [Bath coating is a fabric used to make outer garments like coats, greatcoats and the like. This is a heavy and warm wrapper. PD]

Royal Gazette of New York, 1784, "Run away ... a stout Negro Wench ... She had on a green baize wrapper, a light coloured petticoat, and a bundle of other clothes." [Baize (aka bays) is related to flannel but is not as soft. Baize is often used in the same places flannel is used such as for men's shirts, women's and men's jackets, women's gowns, women's petticoats, and lining. PD]





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Note: Petticoats, bedgowns, jackets, wrappers, gowns and cloaks can also be made for you in 100% wool worsted or in 100% silk taffeta. Contact us for color availability and price estimates.

We can make any 18th century style you desire, as elaborate and elegant as you wish. Please visit the Portrait gallery on my website to see some examples of high-style garments I have made. Please be aware that, in order to have the proper look, high-fashion garments will require personal fittings here in my shop, or with one of my sempstresses.
[I have fitting-assistants in New York and Nova Scotia for your convenience.]



WOMEN'S CLOTHING
~~ Gowns & Jackets
~~ Shifts, Petticoats, Jumps
~~ Outerwear
~~ Other Garments (aprons, caps, neckhandkerchiefs, &c)

~~ Infant Clothing

~~ Jewelry



Online Documentation of gowns and jackets:





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